2025 Swiss Peaks 380
with Kirsty Hewitson
As
in 2024 Kirsty and I were looking for a pairs race to do together and the Swiss
Peaks had been on our radar for a couple of years. I had heard good things about
the race and since they do a separate category for pairs we decided to enter a
Team. This time we would have Flora as our support which would help massively,
especially as the route is a point to point from Oberwald to Le Bouveret
and we all travelled on the Friday 30th August, with registration being in
various places but we could register at Le Bouveret on our way to Oberwald.
Registration went smoothly and quickly which was lovely. It was a long day from Keswick to
Le Bouveret and we arrived about 8pm and went to find food which luckily we did
in a nearby hotel. The town was very small and it felt very un-race like!
Next day we packed up our bags and the one drop bag we had which was the same size as the TOR bag. With having Flora coming to the Life Bases and some of the other places we were able to have extra stuff in the car with Flora too as she would make her way down the race route in the car, staying at different locations on route. The route is flagged and the gpx download is a back up so I did download it to my handheld Garmin GSMAP 66sr . We decided we would see what the markings were like and then take the handheld later if needed. Kirsty had the gpx on her watch and I had also downloaded it onto the Gaia app ( https://www.gaiagps.com/ ). Gaia is an app I learnt about on the TOR and it's very accurate and useful in foreign countries as well as the UK.
There are 30 checkpoints and six of those are Life Bases where you get your drop bag and they are supposed to be the only places to sleep however I had been asking people and watching videos etc and knew you could sleep at other places. This was really hard to find out where exactly so planning ahead was extremely hard especially as the route has changed over the years and from 2024 to 2025 I knew the section between Thyon 2000 and Salvan has three new checkpoints on it but didn't know whether you could sleep there. I made a schedule up using previous results, the organisors Fastest and Slowest predictions and my own prediction on how long it would take to do a 1000m climb over 10km etc etc The issue being of course is I didn't know the terrain along the way and this varied considerable on the race as we found out!
The weather forecast was hot for Sunday and then on Monday a storm was moving across Switzerland, with the rest of the week not looking too hot and pretty dry although Thursday could bring more rain. To be honest I would have preferred the rain as I just struggle in the heat. It was Inov8 t-shirt and shorts weather of course. For shoes I had chosen the new version of the Inov8 Trailtalon Zero in a size 6.5 and they felt comfy so I planned to set off in them. As a backup I had a pair of size 7 Trail Talon Zero and a pair of TrailFly Zero in size 7. As there isn't a massive kit list (although they do have a "cold weather" and a "hot weather" option that has to be in your dropbag) I used the smaller I was using the https://www.inov8.cTwo in One Hydration vest and I had packed the tried and tested Inov8 Racepac 20 for when / if we had to carry the cold weather kit or I wanted to carry extra kit. I just love the pockets and know I can access everything and it's comfortable to wear for days on end.
Start at 10am on Sunday 31st August to CP1 12.6km +702m -716m 2.20 hours arrived 12.20pm.
There is another race which is the 700km and these runners started on Monday and it's run as a sort of Stage race with everyone finishing and staying the night together until they get to Fiesch. Then the next day they start at Oberwald I think it was at 9.45am, 15 minutes before the 380km set off. There were 85 runners left in this race and it was nice to cheer and clap them on their way. However Kirsty and I made the mistake of then setting off nice and steady not knowing the course. The start is all uphill and quite gentle on a road, then a wide track. At some point it becomes a very narrow, single person path with hardly any opportunity for passing and this is where we caught the 700 runners obviously walking. It was fine on the steep uphill but once at the top the route contoured for miles and then went downhill but everyone was still walking. Eventually we could see about six 700 walkers ahead and we started overtaking when we could. We were apologetic and when we reached the 700 runners they were happy we passed them. We just had no idea how long we would have had to wait for the path to get wide again. So then we were running down a nice path through the woods to the valley (which was hot) and along a short section of road to the first CP. This was two tents set up either side of the road which had water, electrolyte drink, banana, fruit, bars, salami, cheese. Ulrichen Not a Life Base. Tents either side of the road. Busy
CP1 to CP2 15.8km +1025m -941m. 2.44 hours Total 05.04. Arrived Sun 15:04
This section was short (ish - it's all relative) steep ascent of 1025m. The path was sometimes a big track and sometimes a smaller path. The field had spread out and it was nice to go at your own pace. The plateau was wide and grassy and had a little single track path across it. A long descent to the valley and then a short sharp climb up to the checkpoint which just felt absolutely roasting. I honestly thought I had flu I felt that bad. I staggered into the checkpoint, a large tent with tables around the outside with fruit, bars, salami, etc and I saw melon (as well as lots of other food). I took a couple of bits of melon and headed to the soup. Even though I was hot I felt I needed something to settle my stomach. The soup was good and I had another small cup. I took some banana and headed to where the water trough and Kirsty were. There were quite a few runners lying about looking hot and so I thought maybe it was the heat getting to me. There was a half full can of Lemon Zero beer and I emptied it into my cup. It tasted good and I felt a lot better. We left the checkpoint and started uphill steeply again. Reckingen- Not a Life Base. One big marquee with tables around the outside. Water trough to keep beer cool. Busy
CP2 to CP3 19.3km +1713m. -1390m 4.20
hours Total 09.24 . Arrived Sun 19:24
I felt a lot better on this climb. It was steep again but short and then a plateau which was cooler before the really steep climb to the top of Arnagale at 2455m. It was hard to eat and hike uphill as it was literally straight up. The top came as a typical Swiss grassy plateau before a long descent down to Chaserstatt which was a welcomed sight as it had non alcoholic beer and raclette (boiled potatoes with a side of melted cheese and a gherkin or pickled onion). We collected our beer and food and sat down. It was delicious and we were both happy with it. We didn't spend long as it was only a short distance to the next checkpoint. Chaserstatt - Not a Life Base. Chalet / Pub with covered outside area. Bar and Raclette
CP3 to CP4 (Fiesch Life Base) 7.1km +196m. -902m 1.33 hours Total 10:58 . Arrived Sun 20:58
A short section of road and then a long descent on winding paths through woods to the valley floor and a suspension bridge. I don't like suspension bridges and I was glad there was no one around as it was nice just to power walk across. That is until I was nearing the other side and the bridge started bouncing a lot as someone was running behind me. I just kept my eyes on the end and kept going hoping that he wouldn't catch me. I got off the bridge and breathed a sigh of relief. We were on a road and a little from the CP so we put our head torches on. Flora had come out to meet us and it was a good thing as it was quite tricky to find the checkpoint and not many flags. Flora had also sussed the checkpoint out and knew where everything was. We collected our drops and decided on an hour's checkpoint stop. The food was good but had to be collected from a canteen where drinks had to be paid for (remember card or cash) and Flora had brought pizza.We also took our warmer clothes and thicker waterproofs as it was due to rain and get cold before we got to the next Life Base. I changed rucksack to the 20 ltr one as it was just more comfortable and I was used to the pocket location. Up to now the markings had been very good and we hadn't needed the backup gps so I left the handheld too. Fiesch 1st Life Base. Big school / sports complex. Free food in canteen and Free drinks outside the canteen. Paid for drinks in the canteen.
CP4 to CP5 20.7km +1894m. -828m 5.53 hours Total 10:58 . Arrived Mon 03:53
The climb up to Saflischpass was long but on good paths, again a lot of it was very steep and we were starting to wonder whether all the race was going to be like this. It was hard on the legs, calves and lungs. As we climbed it got colder but not enough for thermal layers yet. The summit was a grassy plateau again and the path down runnable although we had started doing more fast hiking to save our legs and feet by now. The CP was a tent attached to a chalet and it was cold inside. Kirsty spotted a room at the back and went to investigate. When she found the bunkroom she asked to lie down for 10 minutes. There were just two beds left so we lay down for 10 minutes and then got up and finished our food before heading out into the cold and dark again. We were there about an hour in all. Fieschboden - Not a Life Base. Long tent attached to a Chalet. Thick soup, pasta with tomatoes (I think) and hot drinks. Room at back of tent which was warmer, toilets and a small room off that with about 20 bunkbeds in it.
CP5 to CP6 11.5km +1354m. -1065m 4.35 hours Total 22:28 . Arrived Mon 08:28
We descended down to a valley then a lot of valley, woods and fields. We were now both finding the steep climbs hard work and this was another another steep climb on route to Nanzlicke summit with the CP 3/4 of the way up. It was windy and getting colder. We dived into the tent and stopped to put on all our layers. Everyone was doing the same as we knew we had more climbing to do. Lengritz - Not a Life Base. Tent - not huge about 6m by 6m. Cold and windy. Hot soup and good selection to say it was a tent. Absolutely no sleeping and not even anywhere to sit apart from the floor.
CP6 to CP7 11.1km +551m. -994m 2.35 hours Total 25.13. Arrived Mon 11:13
A small climb up after the CP onto the plateau and and then a long descent before a bit of a climb and descent on huge ski resort tracks to the CP. There was the young 700 runner there, that I had spoken to at Chaserstatt and he was drinking a proper beer so I was going to joke with him as I had persuaded him previously that non alcoholic beer was good for his stomach. Then I realised that he had dropped out and so I didn't have the heart to say anything as he looked so miserable. The food on offer was basic but I was getting a liking for the thin soup and so had a couple of bowls of that with the bread. Kirsty went inside to ring Flora and let her know of our expected time at Eisten. Giw - Not a Life Base. On a Ski chalet with tables set up outside the building. Few chairs inside but that's it. Cold and exposed. No hot food except thin soup (& special home made ham). Hot water and drinks.
CP7 to CP8 (Eisten Life Base) 11.4km +369m. -1241m 2.59 hours Total 28.12. Arrived Mon 14:12
A bit of a climb then a massive long descent. My toes had started complaining about the descents and I had a blister on one heel that I taped. There was a long run through the town where Flora was there to meet us. We decided to sleep even though it was daylight. Kirsty had a massage and we both had showers. Sleeping was a hall on route to showers and surprisingly comfy and quiet. We had 1.30 hours sleep and were in the checkpoint about 3 hours. There was a notice when we collected our dropsbags that we had to take our cold weather kit from Eisten when we left in preparation for the storm coming in later that night. While I was there I saw Anthony Samain that I met on the TOR Glaciers but we were both busy (he was settling down to sleep) and so I didn't disturb him. I hoped we would see him later as he was really good company on the Glaciers. Eisten - Life Base. Marquee outside a sports hall. Rain had got in the marquee. One long table with polenta and a mince sauce. Not much other food. Made up a pudding and ate that after sleeping.
CP8 to CP9 9.3km +1149m. -527m 3.23 hours Total 34.23. Arrived Mon 20.23
Out of Eisten and straight into a big steep climb to 1740m. I was getting used to these climbs now and didn't mind them although this one was on a small, narrow rocky path that seemed unused. We met the UTMR route before Hanniglap and contoured round to the ski station which I partly recognized. The cows had eaten the flags and it was foggy and dark so after looking around for the flags and trying to remember the UTMR route to Grachen I got my phone out and used Gaia to find the route again. There were hardly any flags into Grachen so Gaia was very useful. It was cold now outside and the warmth of the checkpoint was welcomed. I tried to tape my big toes but that was unsuccessful. In hindsight I should have changed into my size 7's at Eisten. Grachen - Not a Life Base. At the Zum See restaurant and wonderful food like moussaka / lasagna dish. Nice, warm and spacious inside. No sleeping that I could see.
CP9 to CP10 - 9.6km +902m. -634m 3.14 hours Total 37.37. Arrived Mon 23.37
As we had left the Grachen checkpoint and opened the door I was greeted by Fiona Russell who I've been coaching to the UTMR Stage race and she was there with her friends. They were all very excited about their race, which started the next day and also about seeing us. I was really honoured that they had waited outside at 10pm at night and then just walked through town with us. It was a merry chatty group heading through town and then we met Graham Nash who I know from Carnethy and also he did the Eiger 280 in 2024. Graham has been very helpful in supplying information about the route and the checkpoints and it was great to then carry on out of town with Graham giving us even more advice! Thank you everyone in Grachen. We descended slightly to the valley near Brig and then had a climb up the checkpoint through villages on plateaus along the way. We both ordered raclette and Kirsty asked about sleeping and was told there wasn't any. Jungen - Not a Life Base. Tent set up and attached to a bulding with a sort of high bar where the hot water was and food was prepared behind. Raclette was wonderful plus hot drinks. I made up my coffee bag in a water flask. Wood tables with long benches. Quite small and tight for space.
CP10 to CP11 14.7km +1005m. -1132m 5.45 hours Total 43.22. Arrived Tues 05.23.
Leaving the checkpoint we continued upwards on a narrow, rocky path through grassy hillside and trees until we emerged out of the trees and onto more rocky ground. This reminded me so much of the UTMR with some of the tracks being made out of huge flat stones and then onto a area of technical rocks where the path barely exists and you're just looking for the next flag or painted stone. I was quite enjoying it as I like that terrain but it was getting quite slippy in the heavy rain, and both of us were slow as there was no-one in front to follow. We were caught by some other runners, as we put on more layers, and let them pass as it was good to have people in front of us in the dark. We climbed up and then onto a rocky basin where the path became more distinct and it was a narrow path winding it's way up the gravel type rock to the col of Augstbordpass at 2894m. I was wondering what the descent might be like but as we started to descend it was a better path with lots of zigzags and we could see the lights going off down in front of us. It was a good descent and we were looking forward to Bluomatt which I had heard was a stable. Flora met us on the track to the farm and she was a happy and had been given a job of marshalling as the cows had been moved across the yard. It is a working farm and we had to cross the cow tracks (and muck) to get into the shed. The smell of food greeted us and straight away we put our order in for the omelette with potatoes. I had been eating very well with the food I had brought - mainly bars, nuts and sweets with the odd gel but the real food was really helping and there was a lot of it. Bloumatt - Not a Life Base A farmers barn with a hayloft above where there were 16 or so campbeds and blankets. It was cold upstairs but they had a fire downstairs. Hot food was omlettes and potatoes. Wonderful place. Made up a Expedition foods pudding here. Stayed 3 hours.
CP11 to CP12
8km +1026m. -364m 3.01 hours Total 49.24. Arrived Tues 11.24
From Bloumatt we climbed on grassy paths through woods and low level valley until we reached the main climb which was up a wide valley which turned into a narrow rocky path through scree to the Col de la Forcletta. This was another long climb with some fantastic views down the valley behind us and over the top of the col. The sun had come out and we took layers off on the climb. Then a short descent down to the checkpoint.
Tsahelet - Not a Life Base. A barn or tent with food and drinks. I can't remember much of it. No sleeping.
CP12 to CP13 (Grimentz Life Base) 10.5km +312m. -1238m 03.05 hours Total 52.13. Arrived Tues 14.13
From Tashelet there was a long downhill on winding paths and then a climb to the checkpoint in the town. Flora came right out and met us again which was lovely. We decided not to sleep but to be quite quick and were about an hour in the checkpoint. I changed my shoes into the TrailFly's size 7 and that cured both my big toes hurting and helped the blisters on my heels which weren't proper blisters but where my hard skin was rubbing so I just kept covering it in tape. Grimentz - Life Base No 3. Big chalet which you entered below into a small room and had to take your shoes off. Canteen upstairs / eating area. Quite crowded and squashed for space. Sleeping looked to be separate rooms with bunks about 4/6 to a room. Lots of great food. Lasagna, salad, potatoes, vegetables, scrambled eggs with cheese & veg. yoghurt, non ac beer, coke etc
CP13 to CP14 7.5km +886m. -7m 03.30 hours Total 55.45. Arrived Tues 17.45
From Grimentz we started up a long valley on big trails and I was thinking that somewhere we will get to the dam that I have read about and seen in the videos. Up ahead we could see the massive wall and we climbed up the side of it to the Alpage de Torrent Dam wall, where we were alongside the massive blue green reservoir. We stopped to take photos and an Italian man stopped too so we took each other's photos. It wasn't far up the track from the dam to the CP. It was getting very cold, windy and raining and so we dived into the crowded tent and put all our layers and waterproofs on. Alpage de Torrent Not a Life Base. A pretty big tent with benches in it and a fire. Serving pancakes with either bacon or sweet lemon and sugar. We were only allowed one pancake each so we had one each and I had some tea with sugar. No sleeping.
CP14 to CP15
11.9km +433m. -1539m 2.45 hours Total 58.30. Arrived Tues 20.30
From the tent we headed up and up to col de Torrent across a plain of grey slate with a tiny footpath carved in it and flagged with little flags. The View over the col was stunning and we stopped to quickly take more photos before starting the long descent down. It was dark as we ran through town and the checkpoint was set back from the road. We questioned whether it was the checkpoint or not as there were no race signs. There was a lot of tables and chairs but it was very quiet. Now I think most runners were inside the Gite as I've seen that you can sleep there. But we didn't plan to so we ate lots of food and I collected some cake bars too before heading off. Evolene. Not a Life Base Set back off the road. Easy to miss. A big marquee set up in the property of the Gite La Peniche which is opposite. Sleeping is available in the gite we realised. Great hot foods options with raclatte, hot drinks and a lot of cakes, bars, yoghurts.
CP15 to CP16 6.8km +845m. -55m 2.45 hours Total 62.17. Arrived Wed 00.17
We left the valley checkpoint feeling a bit zonked and it was a long, cold climb up but on big ski tracks and we arrived at the top hoping for good food. The CP was quiet and we helped ourselves to hot water and I made my coffee up. The lady made us omelets which were amazing and said we could sleep. Kirsty went first as there was only one spare bed and I followed 15 minutes later. We slept for about 1.30 hours and then I had more bananas and fruit with yoghurt before we headed out into the cold. Chemeuille (in the Restaurant La Remointze) Big inside eating area and a table but no hot food only hot water. Sleeping room consists of about 12 beds and a two hour limit. Quite drafty but one blanket per bed.
CP16 to CP17 ( Thyon Life Base) 21.2km +1328m. -1370m 8.27 hours (spent 3 hours at CP16) Total 70.44. Arrived Wed 08.30 .
It was a long climb on winding wide ski tracks / roads where we felt we were going back on ourselves. There were lights behind us and some 700 guys caught us which was nice. It just seemed to go up gently forever. Somehow the steep climbs get it over with although they are hard. Eventually we reached the top and began the long descent down in the dark We had been discussing when to sleep again and the plan was to go through Thyon and sleep between there and the next Life Base at Salvan. There was a really long section of valley road and tracks and then a surprisingly steep climb up through the woods to the checkpoint but I think it felt longer because we both wanted to get there! Flora was waiting and we collected our bags and started eating while repacking our bags. Thyon 2000 (in the Combyre restaurant). Life Base No 4 Big two storey building. Huge eating area with round tables. Sleeping downstairs (I didn't take a look). Buffet food with choice of pasta, lasagna, stews Was there about 2 hours.
CP17 to CP18 13.3km +542m. -616m 3.13 hours Total 75.13. Arrived Wed 13.13
We left Thyon and it was warm again climbing up onto the plateau with another Duo team that went wrong and we tried calling them back. Eventually they caught us again and passed us. We saw them later and then they went onto have a storming run and win the Duo class. It was a hot climb on big tracks zig zagging up a valley and we were glad to reach the checkpoint and refill our water. The Duo team were just leaving as we arrived. We sat in the shade and then moved into the sun as the shade was quite cool! Tortin - Outside a building with a long table. Cold food and soup. Hot water and lots of cold drinks. Friendly staff.
CP18 to CP19 13.9km +708m. -1691m 04.05 hours Total 79.18 Arrived Wed 17.18
We left the cp and started up a big wide track in the sun. I was glad that we were at altitude as it was hot and dry. We could see the other team up ahead and look back down the valley where we couldn't see anyone. It was a big, grey bare mountain up to the Col de Chassoure where we popped out at the summit to see a building and workman, diggers and trucks much to our surprise. It was a huge ski resort and we descended on massive wide access tracks to another ski station. We had run out of water and Kirsty said I hope there is a vending machine - but of course there wasn't. The views were amazing and we started the long descent of 1691m down stony big tracks connected by smaller paths, all the way down to the next CP. Halfway down I got a massive nosebleed in one nose, and then in the other nose. I plugged it with tissue and carried on but eating was impossible as when you swallow it creates pressure in your nose - which started the nose bleeds off again. I had managed to stop it by the time we got to the checkpoint and had cleaned my face up as much as I can, when we found good water to drink also! The last 400m were on a very small rough path through bushes and rocks. We were met by Flora and Sabrina before the checkpoint and all walked in together, chatting about what they had been up to. We had a portion of Raclette and a non alcoholic beer then went to get some sleep. I didn't sleep much as it was daylight, I had covered myself with some matting but people kept coming and going. I got up and went to get more food and fill a water flask with coffee. Lourtier Not a Life Base. In a sports complex with Raclette served outside and a bar inside with tables of cold food. Sleeping was the sports hall with campbeds but no blankets.
CP19 to CP20 5.2km +1046m. -8m 05.22 hours (spent 2.30 at CP19) Total 84.40 Arrived Wed 22.40
We left Lourtier and the flags disappeared again. I got the Gaia app out and we navigated through the streets. We were joined by a French runner who had got lost too and the locals tried to point us in the right (or wrong) direction. We soon found the flags again on the path and headed up a narrow and very winding path through the trees. Sunday and Monday's climbs and descents had been on smaller paths and very steep but since then the paths have had more zigzags in and are more manageable. It was getting very cold again and the forecast for Thursday was for rain. We entered the CP grateful for it's warmth and ordered the soup. I had started putting the cheese in the soup and this was good with the bread that they had. Cabane Brunet - Inside a chalet. Quite small inside. Two rooms with the first one having the food on a table and a stove. The second one having tables and benches round it. Apparently some sleeping was available. Hot soup, lots of cold food, good bread.
CP20 to CP21
22.0km +917m. -1896m 06.36 hours Total 91.16 Arrived Thurs 05.16
I enjoyed the climb up Mont Brulee in the dark however the descent seemed to go forever and the lack of sleep really affected me. By the time we reached the valley and began the climb up to the checkpoint I was a walking zombie, just following Kirsty's footprints. If I hadn't had someone to follow I would have fallen off the path and would have had to have a sleep on the verge. I have never experience sleep deprivation like it and when we met Flora I could hardly talk but it was good to listen to Flora and Kirsty chatting away. We decided to have 2 hours sleep and stay for three hours in the checkpoint. We had some hot food and I had also started having fruit with yoghurt as my mouth was sore. I was then offered upstairs or downstairs. It was very organised with allocated beds and a two hour limit. I went downstairs which was good. I slept really well after 20 mins of getting sorted. I woke before my time was up and got up. Eating more food upstairs I was aware of some news going round. The staff were telling the runners something and they were starting to pack up. I found out that if we left the checkpoint by 8.30am we could go. If we didn't leave we had to stay there until 11pm. This had been arranged so that we would be over the Fenetre de Arpette before the bad weather came in at 9pm. That was fine with us as it was now 7.45am and we planned to leave before 8.30am anyway. I knew Kirsty would want to sleep for her two hours so I left her. The staff were waking people at their allocated time which was 8am for Kirsty. At 8.05 I went to see if she was awake and she was just getting up and quite flustered. We quickly had some more food and got out the checkpoint which was now deserted. A lot of runners that had just arrived were getting sorted outside including two 700 runners that we kept bumping into with their supporter. Flora had already left us at the checkpoint before we slept. Prassurny. Not a Life Base. Inside a three storey building in the village. Middle storey was the dining and food area, upstairs was sleeping (I didn't see it) and downstairs (in the basement) was sleeping with 10 camp beds and a blanket on each bed. No windows and so very dark and quite cold but the blankets are big enough to lie on and fold over you. Food was pasta and tomato sauce. Hot water and lots of cold food. Fruit and yoghurt.
CP21 to CP22 17.6km +1629m. -1267m 09.52 hours (3 hours in CP21) Total 101.52 Arrived Thurs 15.08
We hiked up out of Prassurny and popped out at Champex, recognizing the lake and town from UTMB days. There was quite a crowd of runners in front of us as most people had vacated the checkpoint not wanting to get stuck there for hours and hours. I felt for the people who hadn't been there long, like the 700 runners we knew. I really enjoyed the climb up Fenetra d' Arpette. It started off as a valley path along a river, then climbed up a rocky path, getting steeper and steeper before ending with following the markings and flags through big steps of boulders until about 200m below the col where it was a steep zig zag path across the grey gravel. I just felt really strong and it was nice to have other runners about that we had been seeing all the time. There were two Italians as a Duo, the two 700 runners that were cheery, a man I think I'd run with on the TOR Geants, a young man in a white teeshirt (we called him "Teeshirt man"). The 700 runners were so impressively strong and we always congratulated them when we passed or they passed us. Somewhere on the descent we received texts to say that we would be held at the next checkpoint until later that night to allow the storm to pass over. Knowing this we slowed down and enjoyed the views as there was no point rushing. We even sat at a little hut and had a little break. When we reached the town Flora and Laurent had come out to meet us but it was still miles to the checkpoint along a grassy track down into town. I spotted a sign for icecreams and exclaimed thinking it was our checkpoint but the checkpoint was just below the main shop/restuarant area. Laurent very kindly stopped and bought us icecreams and then met us at the checkpoint. They were absolutely delicious. We sat outside the hut and talked to Flora and Laurent. Since we were held there we really wanted to sleep but all the sleeping area was being used. The lady in charge said she would start a rota and we were on the second wave of people going to sleep. I think after about an hour she went and woke the people up and then allocated the beds to more runners. The sleeping was a separate hut with 10 bunkbeds, some of them doubles. Flora had brough our sleeping bags but it was hot in the room. We lay down and went to sleep. We had been told we would get two hours but I woke at 6.30pm and was sure our two hours were up. I didn't want to go to the other hut in case they reallocated my bed so I went back to sleep. The rain was pounding down and I was so glad we weren't out in it. The noise of people snoring was unbelievable and I smiled as usually I'm such a light sleeper! At 7.30pm the lady came and told us we would be set off at 9.30pm. I got up at 8pm and went to have more food. The other hut was so crowded but everyone was working around each other and it was a lovely atmosphere. I got more pasta and tea and sat with the two Italians and a Dutchman. We had a great chat about Bob Graham's and other races that we had done. The Dutchman had ran with me on UTS 100 apparently! I felt the organisors had done a really good job of the crisis management and doing everything that they could so that we could complete the full route. Kirsty did keep talking about the "bad weather route" to the extent that me and Flora treated it as a joke! Col De La Forclaz - Not a LIfe Base. A mountain hut with seating outside. Inside two long tables with food and a few long tables with benches on for sitting. Hot food was pasta with tomato sauce and I added cheese. A sleeping hut above but whether this is for runners to sleep in normal conditions I don't know. It was said that it was for the staff to sleep in.
CP22 to CP23
12.9km +965m. -1444m 10.22 hours (6.30 hours in CP22) Total 111.30 Arrived
Fri 01.30
The rain continued pounding down and we all had our waterproofs on but as soon as we were set off at 9.30pm the rain stopped and it was warm again. It didn't seem to take long to climb Mont d'Arpille and then we were on the long descent down and along a river valley to the town. It's always hard to remember the terrain when we were in the dark as you're just looking at your feet. My mouth had got very sore from breathing through it while I had nosebleeds but also from the bars and nuts that I was eating. I had started to take the sort of Chocolate brownie / flapjack pieces that the organisors offered at the checkpoints as well as eat the yoghurt when I could get it. We also realised that as Flora wasn't coming to Salvan that our extra food was in the car and so we text Laurent with all sorts of requests for bars, cakes and sandwiches which to his credit, he found in the middle of the night and brought to Salvan. The rain started up again and so we were glad to reach the shelter of Salvan. Since we had slept well we didn't plan on sleeping there. The food was omlette I think but maybe not! It could have been pasta. We were told we had to take our Cold weather kit from Salvan as the weather was going to stay cold and wet now. Salvan - Life Base No 5 The checkpoint was set out really weirdly where the eating was outside under a marquee on the lower level, and then you went outside and up a level to enter the main building where you could sleep, shower, have massages etc. But you got wet going from the lower to upper level every time you wanted the toilet etc. Initially it was crowded on the lower level but I think everyone had migrated to the inside as it was busy up there then. Laurent was being wonderful as support, filling our bottles and getting us food. The pastries he had Flora were bringing us were really good and they always brought a big sandwich as well which we took with us to eat on route.
CP23 to CP24 9km +973m. -48m 05.15 hours (1.30 hours in CP23) Total 118.15 Arrived Fri 08.15
We left Salvan in the rain and s. We then arrived at the steps! I had seen these on videos but didn't know much about them just that there was a massive gorge and all these metal and wood steps going up the edge of the gorge. Yep - over 680 steps in the first section alone! It must have been a challenge in engineering to get them attached to the rock face and also they weren't for the faint hearted or anyone plump! We used our hands on the rails most of the time and got soaked because not only was there a lot of water normally around in the gorge and running down the walls but it was raining too! It was so strange that no-one had mentioned the steps to us. It's called Gorge du Dailley After the main gorge the wood steps continued however now they were old style and dilapidated climbing up through the forest. We eventually emerged to a road and continued upwards on a combination of big tracks, then we would link one track to the next or short cut a big zag zag but going on steep little paths.
It was quite pleasant and easy going overall and the rain had stopped. We came to a big flat area and I remembered that there should be a lake here but in the dark and clag we couldn't see anything. We carried on a big vehicle track and there appeared this huge 70's hotel. We followed the line of the tapes and flags and entered the basement which was the checkpoint. Salanfe - It was freezing. The coldest checkpoint we had been in because of all the concrete and the door left wide open. They were doing raclatte though and so we ordered some. We made up our Expedition food meals / puddings and ate them straight away. The plan had been to carry them but it was too cold outside to stop to eat. The raclette was good as was the tea. No-one stayed long although I did see someone asleep in a room near the front door but it was baltic in there too! There wasn't a toilet either. I'm not sure if this is always the checkpoint as no-one seems to have mentioned how bare and cold this checkpoint is. And the Supporters info mentions being able to stay and eat at the hut.
CP24 to CP25 15.3km +888m. -1326m 03.20 hours Total 121.35 Arrived Fri 11.35
We left the cold checkpoint and headed round the lake. Daylight had come and we were so hoping the sun would follow as there was a bitterly cold wind. The track went all the way round the lake and as the sun tried to emerge, the cloud base was lifting and the views up the high pointy peaks was stunning. We crossed this wet, soggy plateau trying to keep our feet dry and headed up a ridge of grey scree. Behind us we could see a few people and the 700 runner with the waterproof poncho on. I remembered how good these were in Colombia at being easy to put on and off but also they keep all your heat in so are really toasty underneath. We contoured across the grey scree and could now see where we were heading to get out of the huge basin. It was really amazing and stunning but too cold to stop and take photos. We did stop at one point to eat food and the poncho man caught us. It was good to have him up ahead so we could plan our pace to suit how steep the path was getting. We climbed up and up, following the little windswept flags to the summit. A quick look about and getting blown around we headed down the other side in the comparative shelter. As we descended we met a lady with a dog and had a few words, talking about the route and her dog (as we're both dog owners ourselves). The descent went down this long, green valley with the path being quite wet and slippy with the recent rain. It was a sort of grey clay material that was sticky but slippery and you had to be careful on. The wind was still strong and we were glad to be descending. More hikers were coming up and it was odd to see people as really the route so far had been quiet. One lady stopped to talk to us and congratulate us. We said the paths and hills had got better since Day 2 and she laughed because she said she lived near Oberwald and those valleys were known to be very steep and so hardly anyone walked on them, hence the paths were narrow and unused.
We contoured round and climbed and descended a couple of hills. The path was narrow and then we came to the technical sections where there were chains down the rockfaces. We had been talking about when the 160km runners would catch us and we heard a noise and there was one flying down the mountainside, not using the chains at all. He flew passed and we felt very clumsy. The second man followed about 20 minutes later and then no-one for ages. By this time we were much lower down, the sun had come out and we were taking layers off once more. It was a long way to the checkpoint it felt like and the last up and downhill section was really really muddy. It looked like a herd of cows had come through but we realised it was the 100km race runners and it was like this for miles. When we got to the checkpoint we were a bit jaded and disappointed to find we were in tents outside the chalet and there was no hot food but some soups they could make up (which were actually quite good) so I had a couple of them and added cheese to the soup. Laurent was there with lots of extra food which was lovely and we also set about changing our socks as we had got everything muddy and wet. We also made up another Expedition food pudding as well and ate that. There were quite a few 170 runners coming through now. Balme - Not a Life Base Tents outside the chalet with portaloos for toilets.
CP25 to CP26
20.3km +1035m. -1179m 06.52 hours Total 128.27 Arrived Fri 18.27.00
We set off in good spirits and immediately started to climb up. There wasn't one big climb on this section but lots of short steep, hot climbs, broken up by tracks which zig zagged up. It was very dry and hot. The two 700 runners caught us as we were filling bottles and then we caught them as they sat on a bench. They said they would sleep a longer time at Morgins so that they would finish in the afternoon on Saturday. Everyone was tired but confident they were going to finish now. The first lady on the 170km caught and went passed us. We cheered her on as we realised. It was hard to tell where you were heading as you meandered about, then headed up, then meandered about some more. Overall the terrain had turned more grassy and populated. It felt like we were at the lower levels and I knew this was as we turned the valley at the bottom and headed north. There was a long, long valley down towards Morgins and Flora and Laurent had both come out miles to meet us! It was so nice to have some conversation and learn what they had been doing. We planned to have a sleep as I knew it was a hotel and you were allocated a room so it was a good place to sleep. We headed into the checkpoint and started to eat lasagna with salad, non alcoholic beer, rice puddings, fruit with yoghurt. My mouth was now so sore I couldn't eat bars or nuts but proper food was good. I went and found a room with an en-suite shower and had a shower. Then lay down and slept for about 1.30 hours. I got up and went down to have more food before Kirsty arrived and we got ready to set off on the last leg!! Stayed 3.30 hours Morgins - Life Base No 6 a big hotel, with a huge spacious dining area downstairs and rooms upstairs for sleeping.
CP26 to CP27 6.1km +457m. -117km 05.35 hours (Spent 3.30 in CP26) Total 134.04 Arrived Sat 00.04
We wound our way through the town and on a mixture of footpaths and roads up and away from the town until we reached a stony track. The checkpoint was lively and warm and wooden tables and benches inside. Kirsty ordered bacon crepes and I ate half of mine before my stomach decided it didn't like the bacon and I was nearly sick. I drank some tea and ordered a honey one which went down ok but I was feeling a bit queasy. We set off and at least it was uphill and a nice path. We followed a ridge line of sorts and it was very much pastoral climbing and terrain. Chalet de Conche - inside a big wood chalet. Crepes like pancakes but thicker with bacon/cheese or honey. Can probably sleep but very soon after Morgins so didn't ask.
CP27 to CP28 13km +805m. -994km 03.55 hours Total 137.59 Arrived Sat 03.59
We climbed up above the checkpoint and it was much more rural with evidence of cows. The recent rain and the number of runners meant that some of the narrow footpaths were very slippery. We seemed to climb up and up on a path or track to a ridge / summit and then divert off on a tiny unused path, down a very steep hillside to hit a track that we would turn right on and slowly climb back up, to just repeat what we had just done. It was a bit tiresome and rather Barkleyist! There were runners from the shorter races coming passed and they had road shoes on and were slipping all over. We were just very slow as pretty tired. Eventually we hit a track that climbed up and there was a checkpoint! We went in and Kirsty wanted to sleep so I went to look at the options. It was a big tent, with 12 or so camp beds and blankets but it was so cold I knew I could sleep in there. I went back and told Kirsty and she had a look and decided against it too. We just snuggled down in our chairs in front of the fire and I had 2 minutes and Kirsty had 10 minutes. I ate more food and made my coffee bag up with hot water. There was a party atmosphere in this checkpoint with a bar, real beer and wine and music. A few of the runners we knew came in and were having 10 minutes too - the Italian and Teeshirt man. Chalet Blansex - tent attached to a building with a wood burning stove in it. Very cheery with a bar, beer and wine. Nice raclette. Tent for sleeping outside with 12 camp beds and blankets but way too cold at night when we were there.
CP28 to CP29
5.9km +434m. -516km 01.31 hours Total 139.30 Arrived Sat 05.30
We left there and the path led upwards through some very boggy ground in the woods. The trend continued where we would be on a big track and then get diverted off to cut a corner on a small, unused rough path but at least we were always climbing so it was good to cut the corners and we were just as fast off road as on road. It was a short section and we seemed to reach the checkpoint quickly. Again another very cheery tent where they were serving up fried mushrooms which I usually love but the stomach wasn't too happy. I had brought some rice puddings and so ate one of those, the soup and made up an Expedition pudding and ate that. There was a campbed that looked cosy and I hoped Kirsty didn't want a sleep as I wanted to get on and it was nearly daylight. She didn't say so we got on our way! Taney - Big tent with gas fire in the middle. One campbed set up in the middle of the tent. Lots of cold food. Serving mushrooms and thick soup. Also hot water.
CP29 to CP30 9.8km +550m. -1070km 04.41 hours Total 144.11 Arrived Sat 10.11
I really enjoyed this next (and sort of last big climb) up a picturesque valley on a good track, with a nice gradient. We were heading to the finish! There were some steep sections but relatively short compared to the first two days. There were runners catching us from the different races and at some point we spotted the lake where the finish was. It still looked a long way away! The descent was gradual and that was nice for us as we had sore feet and weren't running much. The temperature was warming up and we stopped to take layers off again (maybe for the last time!). Laurent came out to meet us and was very cheery, taking photos. The checkpoint had a lot of food laid out and they offered us everything but we just wanted to finish now so I just took bananas and we got on our way. Le Grand Pre - Huge covered porch of a chalet. Lots and lots of food. Probably hot food but we didn't stay long. Maybe sleeping.
CP30 to Finish 11km +209m. -735km 02.24 hours Total 146.35 Arrived Sat 12.35
Laurent had said it was a nice path to the finish - but in reality we dived off this and went off piste again! We climbed up onto a nice ridge and could see views either side. And then descended a little and headed off into the woods on a very long contouring and rough path with tree roots, rocks and undergrowth. This became a wider track which was pleasant and dropped us into the back of town. We could see the harbour but the flags turned left and I remembered this dogleg out of town on one side of the road (and railway line) and then over the road and railway line to run back along the lake front. It was hot and we wanted to finish so we ran, probably the fastest we had run for days! Into the harbour we went, searching for clues as to where the finish was. Through an archway and boards on the side of the walkway which we slapped, but no this wasn't the finish! Further we went, round corners and past tents until we could see the finish archway. The commentator was talking and I listened for our names. We finished with the applaud of Flora, Laurent and a few spectators. There was no-one there to tell us what to do next so we had a few photos and picked up our beer from the tent. We finished in a Strava time of 147 hours and 36 minutes, 4th Team and 1st Ladies in the Duo class.
Then the commentator and film crew appeared and started to make a fuss. Apparently one of the spectators had told them we had finished - the first Ladies in Duo. They wanted us to run through the finish line again so they could film it. This we duly did and they presented us with a bottle of champagne. And then we were allowed to head round the Finishers area and receive our racepac (which was very nice) and be released out onto the park to meet Flora and Laurent. We spent the afternoon drinking beer and eating things like chips which we craved. It was a wonderful end to a great week of hardship, sleep deprivation, fantastic food and amazing scenery.
There is a really good short video here from 2025 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgnT1Hke-Rk that shows the scenery and the food at the checkpoints. It's my favourite video of all time. This is another snapshot video from 2024 (which did a slightly different route but also shows a lot of what I talk about shown in daylight where we were in the dark) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YTYdrOIKCk Our photos are here gather from me, Kirsty, Flora and Laurant. Gallery Swiss Peaks 380
The next day was the prize giving and medal ceremony at 9am. We watched the 700 prizegiving and ceremony and then it was the 380 prizegiving. It was surprising to find out that the organisors don't have a Female category in the Duo race, just an Open category (in which women are unlikely to win), but the organisor understood what we were saying - we were fourth team overall and so weren't on the podium for the Open. So it did look as if no women had finished. Hopefully they change that in the future. The results are here and if you look sometimes (or on a Ipad/phone) you can find the splits but at the moment on this link there is just the Finish times. https://sptiming.ch/swisspeaks-trail-2025/?lang=en#3_8D20AE The race organisors adjusted the times for the stoppage and have taken 9 hours off our 147.36 hours time time to make it 136.36 hours, which is very commendable that they went to all that trouble for everyone. The LiveTiming link sometimes shows the splits and sometimes doesn't - again try it on a mobile https://swisspeaks.ch/livetiming/?lang=en
After thoughts: It's an amazing race. The first two days have the hardest climbs in them even though they aren't as long as some of the others. That's what we thought and the lady that described that valley as hard confirmed what we thought. The rest of the week had some tough climbs but on mainly good paths with zigzags or long gradual climbs. The big climbs were stunning at the top and I wish I had taken more photos. The heat on day 1 made it hard for me and the rest of the week was thankfully cooler, at night very cold at altitude. The checkpoints are very well stocked and very frequent. There was only one time we ran out of water. The checkpoints had a good variety of cold snacks, cold drinks and most times a hot meal option. Having different food at the checkpoints was really good as I've always got sick of the same food being served up at every checkpoint on other races. Even so the Expedition food meals / puddings and again rice puddings for me are a godsend when you just find that your stomach just doesn't want any more sugar, bars etc.
It was amazing having Flora and Laurent to support us especially at non Life Base checkpoints - bringing our extra food but also special food they found and purchased, the sleeping bags where we could sleep and everything else we wanted. I went onto rice puddings and they are heavy. I was also eating any pastries and sandwiches that were brought to us plus cakes etc. Flora made sure our head torches were always charged up and looked after all Kirsty's kit and food bag for her. A massive thanks to Flora and Laurent for this. Typing my report it really came home what a difference they made to our race.
It's really hard as a Team to align sleep needs after three days. We did very well on the Eiger 260km but it was a lot shorter and so sleep deprivation didn't really kick in. Not knowing where we could sleep made this harder as we passed through places that looked a lot better than the places we chose to sleep. This is why I've tried to remember the checkpoints and make notes about them. I'm sure I have missed things but it will all help if I ever enter the race again. Being in a Team though was an exceptional experience and we shared the experiences and laughs when it was going well together which is what we both missed when we do races on our own.